Maison Margiela’s Couture Legacy and the Anticipation for Glenn Martens’ Fall 2025 Artisanal Show

Maison Margiela has never been about fitting in. Since its debut into the world of couture, the house has challenged every convention, stripping fashion to its bones and rebuilding it into something poetic, raw, and completely original. From Martin Margiela’s groundbreaking deconstructed pieces to the anonymous models and fragmented tailoring, couture at Margiela has always told a story of rebellion dressed in impeccable craft.

Now, with Belgian designer Glenn Martens at the helm, the Maison’s Artisanal line is entering a bold new era. Martens, known for his architectural silhouettes and conceptual layering, has been breathing new energy into the legacy Margiela built. As the fashion world turns its gaze to Paris this July, all eyes are on the Fall 2025 Artisanal Show—poised to be one of the most anticipated couture presentations of the year.

 

 

A Radical Beginning: Martin Margiela’s First Couture Vision

Spring 1989 wasn’t just Martin Margiela’s first couture presentation—it was a controlled explosion that rewired the DNA of fashion.

 

 

The first model stepped onto the runway shirtless, wearing simple, unfinished white trousers, a jabot tied into a makeshift hand bra, and the now-iconic black Tabi boots. On her chest was a faint tan line shaped like a V-neck tee, as if the ghost of a garment had been sunburned onto her skin.

 

 

Hair and makeup were purposefully unrefined: stark black eyes, deep red lips, and messy, undone textures that lent each model a raw humanity. Later in the show, an all-red multilayered look introduced what would become a Margiela signature—the full-face mask, obscuring identity and elevating anonymity into art. This red section also introduced several motifs that would define the house: distortion of form, unconventional layering, and garments that walked the line between unfinished and impeccable.

 

early couture pieces were assembled from vintage finds—gloves stitched into tops, scarves reimagined as dresses, and vests constructed from belts. These were not just fashion statements; they were philosophical declarations. Couture was no longer about untouchable perfection. Instead, it became a playground for memory, process, and reinterpretation. Models walked anonymous, their faces covered or turned away from the camera, further redirecting attention to the clothing itself.

 

 

Iconic Margiela Couture Moments

Throughout the 1990s and early 2000s, Margiela’s Artisanal collections became the blueprint for avant-garde fashion. The Tabi boots, first shown in 1989, became a lasting icon—disruptive, architectural, and unmistakably Margiela. These split-toe shoes, inspired by traditional Japanese footwear, served as both a fashion statement and a philosophical nod to cultural fusion and functional surrealism.

One of the most unforgettable shows involved garments made entirely of hair. Another reimagined broken china plates into bodices. Seat belts became eveningwear. Old wigs were transformed into coats. And in every piece, there was a dialogue between the discarded and the divine. Margiela taught us that couture didn’t have to shimmer to be magical; sometimes it was the rawest, strangest pieces that told the deepest stories.

Inside-out tailoring also became a house code—garments presented with exposed linings, visible seams, and incomplete hems. The very elements that other designers would hide, Margiela showcased as proof of process, honesty, and the human hand.

Glenn Martens Steps Into the Atelier

After years of being shrouded in mystery, the Maison reopened its couture chapter under Glenn Martens, the creative director also known for his innovative work at Y/Project. Martens took on the Artisanal line in 2022, ushering in a new era that paid homage to Margiela’s DNA while injecting fresh energy and experimentation.

Martens brought his signature sculptural tailoring and layered construction to the house, while still upholding the spirit of deconstruction and reinvention. His recent shows have been met with critical acclaim for their cerebral artistry—showcasing repurposed denim gowns, tailored bodices made of canvas, and dramatic, billowing silhouettes. His ability to balance fantasy with craftsmanship has made him one of the most exciting names in couture today.

 

 

Fall 2025 Artisanal Show: What to Expect

Scheduled to debut during Paris Haute Couture Week from July 7 to 10, the Fall 2025 Artisanal Show is already generating buzz in the fashion world. Expectations are high: Martens has continually impressed with his hybrid of concept and construction, and many believe this could be his most ambitious show yet.

Will we see more daring materials? Sculptural shapes? Perhaps new interpretations of the Tabi or further nods to Margiela’s original inside-out aesthetic? Whatever form it takes, Martens’ approach ensures that the Fall 2025 Artisanal show won’t just reflect couture—it will provoke it.

In a fashion landscape saturated with noise and nostalgia, Maison Margiela continues to be a beacon of bold expression. And with Glenn Martens at the helm, the house’s couture future looks as innovative—and poetic—as its past.