February 16, 2024

Rick Owens SS24 Lido

With his SS24 collection, Owens once again is captivating audiences with his signature "grim, determined elegance." This season, however, sees a departure from his usual all-black palette, signaling a shift towards embracing color within his dark universe.

In previous collections, Owens had occasionally flirted with color, notably incorporating fuchsia pink sequins in his Fall/Winter 2023 showcase. While this experimentation received mixed reviews, it demonstrated Owens' willingness to break free from his self-imposed constraints. With SS24, Owens continued to challenge norms, infusing his garments with an array of browns, reds, beiges, and pale pinks, alongside his staple black.

Despite the introduction of color, Owens remained true to his aesthetic, focusing on exaggerated silhouettes and avant-garde constructions. The collection featured radical flared pants paired with small tops, creating elongated, alien-like figures, while billowing shirts and tunics crafted from lustrous habotai silk added a touch of grandeur. Notably, Owens pushed boundaries with his shoulder designs, incorporating semi-transparent fabrics that extended above the models' heads, evoking a sense of dark mystique.

Throughout the show, Owens' commitment to craftsmanship and quality was evident, with pieces made from local Italian jersey and leather, meticulously crafted by hand. Each garment was presented with conviction, embodying Owens' ethos of uncompromising self-expression.

The SS24 collection was not just a display of fashion; it was a testament to Owens' ability to inspire devotion and provoke emotion. Inspired by a Bjork concert and driven by a newfound sense of joy, Owens delivered a show filled with color, energy, and hope. As the audience witnessed his cast of alien beauties adorned in leather mermaid skirts and striking cocoon capes, it was clear that Rick Owens had once again left an indelible mark on the fashion world.